T.O.P. Photon

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Contents

[edit] Overview

The TOP Photon was developed by Josh Cyrul during the 2008-2009 winter racing season. Since the release of the TOP Racing Photon there have been three major model releases

  1. TOP Racing Photon Foam Edition 1/10 Touring Car Kit - June 2009
  2. TOP Racing Photon Rubber Edition 1/10 Touring Car Kit - June 2009
  3. TOP Racing Photon 1/10 Int'l Limited Edition Touring Car Kit - May 2010
    • TOP Racing Photon 1/10 USA Spec Int'l Limited Edition Touring Car Kit - May 2010

The International Limited Edition differs from the Rubber Kit by including:

  • New lipo chassis (Stiff version - PO-PCHS009)
  • New rubber top deck (2.0mm Soft Rubber Spec version - TC-PCHC04)
  • New top deck screws
  • New v2 shocks
  • v2 Spool

The USA Spec kit includes an extra full set of suspension plastic parts at no extra charge (2 front arms, 2 rear arms, 2 caster blocks, 2 steering blocks, 2 rear uprights)! It is only available through dealers within USA and Canada.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Manufacture Web Pages


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Manual


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Discussion Boards


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Build Hints

Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Screws

The TOP kit screws aren't the best screws that I've ever seen included with an R/C car. For just about 15-20 USD you can get sufficient replacement screws. I typically buy all of my metrics scripts from McMaster-Carr, this list costs $54. The only screws that are not available from McMaster-Carr are the 2.5mm top deck screws.

Recommended replacement screws (quantity 100/ea) are:

  1. Metric 18-8 Ss Flat Head Socket Cap Screw, M3 Size, 6mm Length, .50mm Pitch - pn 92125A126
    • for bulkheads -- a lot of these are used in the kit build up
  2. Metric 18-8 Ss Flat Head Socket Cap Screw, M3 Size, 10mm Length, .50mm Pitch - pn 92125A130
    • for lower steering blocks
  3. Metric 18-8 Ss Flat Head Socket Set Screw, M3 Size, 16mm Length, .50mm Pitch - pn 92125A134
    • for front arms, and front of rear arm mounts
  4. Metric 18-8 Ss Flat Head Socket Cap Screw, M3 Size, 20mm Length, .50mm Pitch - pn 92125A136
    • for rear most arm mounts <-- this size is not included within the kit
  5. Metric Alloy Steel Cup Point Socket Set Screw, M3 Size, 12mm Length, 0.5mm Pitch - pn 92015A107
    • for steering blocks
  6. Metric Alloy Steel Cup Point Socket Set Screw, M3 Size, 10mm Length, 0.5mm Pitch - pn 92015A106
    • for rear hubs ball studs
  7. Metric Alloy Steel Cup Point Socket Set Screw, M3 Size, 8mm Length, 0.5mm Pitch - pn 92015A105
    • for front camber links on C-hub/steering block and droop screws
  8. Metric Alloy Steel Flat Point Sckt Set Screw, M3 Size, 4mm Length, .5mm Pitch - pn 92605A098
    • for rear hubs empty hole and sway bars
  9. Metric 18-8 Ss Socket Head Cap Screw, M3 Thread, 8mm Length, 0.5mm Pitch - pn 92095A181
    • for camber plates ball studs


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Shocks

Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Build Instructions

Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Larry's Method

"Ok here is what I do when I build my shocks. I only use the V2 Shock now as they are smoother and don't have random leaking problems that some of the old v1 shocks had.

The first thing I do is not exactly necessary but I like to do it.

I cut the little nub that doesn't have threads off the bottom of the shafts. this makes me able to screw on the bottom and shorten the whole throw of the shock so the piston doesn't push on the bladder as much when fully compressed. Like I said its not necessary because you are probably never compressing the shock that much anyways but I do it none the less.

I make sure the white spacer that goes in the bottom of the shock slides on the shaft with no friction at all, I like to make sure it drops on. If it doesn't I hit it with a reamer real quick. But as of right now with the v2 shocks this problem has gone away and I haven't had to do it with the white machined piece.

I use the 40 degree o rings even with the V2 shocks all the time. I use green slime on the o ring.

I put a .2mm shim on top of the piston between the piston and the Eclip to take up the little bit of play the piston has.

As of late I don't like running any rebound at all in my shocks so I drill a hole in the plastic part of the cap right at the base of the shock mounting part that goes up from the flat part of the cap with a #57 drill bit.

Then I put the shaft in and make sure it slides up and down very very smoothly on the oring. It usually does if everything is done right. I ream out the shock bottom were the 5.8 ball goes in so it is as free as possible without any slop. This usually just takes a slight touch with a reamer. I also hit the plastic top with a reamer too, just so everything rotates smoothly.

I screw the bottom on as much as possible right before it starts binding the 5.8 ball in the bottom on each of the shocks.

Then I fill up the shock with oil. Always Losi oil, just because thats what I have used for the past 5 years so I know it well. And they have half weights which gives me more range of adjustment.

If possible I build my shocks and let them sit overnight and get the bubbles out, I don't like using a shock pump because it feels like you can always get bubbles to come up if you pump it too much. I do use them at the track once in a while if I don't have time to let the shocks sit for an hour or so.

When I am ready to finish I push the shaft 95 percent of the way in and push the bladder on with the back of my lunsford turnbuckle wrench or whatever is just about the same size as the concave part of the bladder make sure all the excess oil runs out and you keep the shock shaft pushed in 95 percent of the way. Then I screw the cap on almost all the way and push the shaft the rest of the way in as any excess oil bleeds out and then tighten the cap. If you drilled the holes right and built it right it should have no rebound at all and no contraction when you pull the shaft out.

I measure my shocks from end to end after being built and make them 61.5mm.

That is pretty much exactly what I do. The keys are making sure before putting oil in them that all the shafts slide on the orings very smoothly with almost no friction at all.

Also always make sure the pistons are clean and without burrs before putting them in.

I always use the 1.2mm pistons with 3 holes.

I think that is everything. Probably way more info than anyone needed and most of it unnecessary."


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] EJ's Method

  • Two 1.0mm holes are drilled into the top of the shock cap
  • After filling the shock, I seal the bladder with the piston all the way down. Due to the hole in the cap there is no rebound in the shock

IF the shock has any rebound upon initial build don't worry, it will go away shortly after running, but will not produce air in the shock. This method is by far the easiest to do reliably, consistently, and quickly.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Cleaning Instructions

"NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING ON SHOCKS. Just dump the oil out and let them sit upside down for like 10 minutes and refill with something else. If you spray anything on the shock replace take the oring out or replace it."


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Steering

The easiest build modification to increase front steering throw is to remove the 'nub' on the inside of the steering block. This process shouldn't be rushed, and can easily be done with a hand file in order to not damage/weaken the stock steering blocks.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Preventing Front Wheel Chatter

I've been able to come up with two solutions to prevent front wheel chatter when using a spool and a lot of steering throw. The first solution is by far cheaper than the second solution, but both have their own benefits. I had previously been running XRay touring cars for 3 years prior to getting a TOP car.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Front C-Hubs

Both solutions require the replacement of the front C-Hubs with XRay C-Hubs. The stock c-hubs are not wide enough to allow for free movement of the larger lcd/ecs/c.v. axles. The XRay C-Hubs only require a brief sanding on both sides of the C-Hub to free up the suspension movement. XRay C-Hubs require their steel steering bushings and offer alternative Caster degrees -- 2, 4 (stock) or 6.

When using XRay c-hubs a small 3mm shim is required on top of the steering block to remove any vertical slop.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Mostly Stock Parts / 2.0 Internal Gear Ratio

Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Option 1

Side Piece Racing has Aluminum Spool Cup that will allow XRay sized Drive Shafts/Front Axles to be used with the 40T TOP Photon Spool. This new product is called the Mira Outdrives available at http://www.sidepieceracing.com


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Option 2

Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Front Axles

The Atomic/Spec-R constant velocity shafts for the Yokomo BD5 fit the TOP Spool Cups without any modification. The Tamiya drive shafts can also fit, but the ball on the drive shafts are slightly larger, and require additional modifications. Two additional modifications to the

Atomic/Spec-R drive shafts are required to improve durability:

  1. Making custom cut 1.4mm / 0.055" diameter piano wire to replace the stock pins. TOP 1.4mm sway bars also make excellent replacement pin material!
  2. Using heavy duty heat shrink (only!) to secure the pins into the universal shafts. The heat shrink should be check after every run, and replaced when ever it shows a sign of wear.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Front Spool

When running the Atomic / Spec-R front axles you will want to use the TOP Aluminum Spool Cups to prevent the ending of the drive shaft. The Aluminum Spool cups require plastic blades and I've found that the XRay 3.5mm blades hold up better than the TOP blades.

Finally, no matter which blades you use, the length of the Spool Cups are somewhat short, so putting a M3x2mm shim in between the TOP Plastic Spool and the Aluminum Spool Cup allow for more material to grab hold of the blades, and prevents breakage of the blades and damage of the Aluminum Spool Cups. This 2mm thick shim puts extra stress of the Plastic Spool so the plastic notches that mate with the Aluminum Spool Cups should be checked often to make sure it isn't spinning within the plastic slot (which causes a loss of power and bizarre handling issues).


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] XRay-based Parts / 1.9 Internal Gear Ratio

Somewhat out of laziness, and the drive to try something different, I attempted installing XRay T3 38 tooth drive train into my TOP Photon. Thankfully using all of the parts I happened to have in my parts box allowed me to get everything installed. The most rare part was the T2'008/009 US rear belt, otherwise everything was a drop in from my current T3 (which was already configured with 50mm ECS and rear aluminum axles).

I have documented below the quantity of parts required to build your own XRay-based transmission. It leverages the existing/stock center pulley, bearings, eccentric diff holders, wheel hubs, hub drive pins, steering blocks and rear hubs. Replaced with XRay parts are the front spool, spool cups, spool blades, front axles, front belt, rear belt, rear diff, and rear axles. Don't complain about how much this drive line solution costs -- I would only recommend doing this if you already have the parts, otherwise it might be cheaper to buy a used XRay to start the conversion the Side Piece Racing Mira Outdrives. This initial configuration was tried by during the 2010 Halloween Classic and proved to be rock solid -- and was the MAJOR reason to the creation of the Side Piece Racing production line.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Spur Gears

Initially I had issues with stripping spur gears. I finally determined that I was not getting a perfect gear mesh due to the differences in cheap spur gears and the reaming of spurs to fit the 20T plastic pulley. So now when I set my gear mesh I make sure to test at multiple spots and adjusting accordingly.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] 17.5 Stock Non-Timing/SPEC ESC Class

A 88 tooth or even a 86 tooth 64-pitch spur gear is the best option for this class as you need to run FDR in the 3.5 to 4.0 range. If you need to run lower than FDR 3.5 (like when you go outdoors) it makes sense to run either a 86 or 84 tooth gear


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] 17.5 Super Stock Boosted ESC Class

A 100 tooth 64-pitch spur gear provides the best range of gearing to support final drives from 5.0 to 6.5


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Modified Class

A 104 tooth to 108 tooth 64-pitch spur gear will provide the high FDR ratios required for modified touring car racing


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Layshaft

Installing the screws on both side of the layshaft causes the chassis to tweak. Instead of running two screws, with the steel layshaft (only!) install a single Lunsford Long Fat Boy motor screw on the battery side of the chassis. Use a small flat head screw driver to hold the notch at the end of the layshaft while you tighten the screw.

The TOP/Kimbrough spur gears are not always perfectly round within the layshaft. The recommended way to check the pinion/spur gear mesh:

  1. set your gear mesh. tighten the motor screws fully
  2. rotate the spur gear a 1/4 turn and check the mesh. continue to rotate the spur until you go full circle.
  3. you may notice that eventually there is a section of the spur gear that is looser than the others -- focus on that part!
  4. once you find the loose part of the gear mesh, re-adjust the gear mesh here (and here only)
  5. repeat steps 2-4 if necessary


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Gear Diff

[edit] Handling Effects of Gear Diffs

There is no doubt in my mind that running a gear diff in the rear of a touring car outside on an asphalt track is one of the easiest handling change to enable your car to turn in tight corners, especially 180 degree corners.

A gear diff in the rear of a touring car isn't initially as usable / user friendly in a touring car when running rubber tires on carpet. The car will have a very aggressive rotation on the middle to exit of a corner. It takes a lot of throttle control and/or setup changes to get your car drivable. The rear gear diff can be quicker than a ball diff on carpet, but is harder to drive. I believe it is more useful the faster the motor class you run it in. I believe it starts to shine once you start running modified motors especially.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Micro Pro Photon Light WT. Gear Diff. (Pro-Stock Edition)

NOTE DO NOT using this gear diff in the rear of a modified touring car. They will not last a single race!

THE GEAR DIFF BREAK-IN PROCEDURE: Take your diff apart and clean all the oil out. Leave it shimmed how it comes. Put a dab of tooth paste (or any kind with grit to it) inside and reassemble with 2 screws holding it together. Spin the diff with a dremel (I have a old dog bone I cut off to put it the dremel), spin the diff for about 2 minutes on a medium speed. You should feel it start to free up. Then take it all apart clean every thing very good. Put the narrow shim on the outside of the out drive and the wide shim on the inside with the gear. Make sure the out drive spins freely in the diff half when reassembled. You may have to spin the diff out drive with the dremel to get it free. Reassemble with what every oil your using. I used 10k. It should be nice and smooth. You may have to play with the amount of break-in time. 2 minutes seems good for the tooth paste I have. You could also use valve lapping compound. Tooth paste was just easier for me to get.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Atomic/Spec-R SPR009-BD Gear Differential set (For Yokomo BD5 40T)

  • Will support modified motors - Marc Reinhard used it to win the worlds in 2010!
  • Outdoors 350cst XRay silicon oil performed very well this summer on asphalt
  • Indoors 2000cst silicon oil (Associated) or 3000cst silicon (Mugen) worked well on carpet


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Yokomo BD-500GS BD5 Gear Diff

  • Performs like the Atomic/Spec-R diff but it leaks less!


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Ball Diff

Install only four cone washers in the diff half like this: ")()("


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Servo Mounting

The steering servo can be remounted in an alternate position to provide even more steering throw. This has been done successfully with both the JR 8800s and Spektrum 6040 servos. In order to provide clearance for the turnbuckle between the servo saver and bell crank, the servo case must be trimmed to allow for proper clearance. This is best done with a dremel with a sanding drum bit.

Within the newly drilled hole we have been using a straight XRay servo mount with minimal shims. The top picture shows the large amount of shims used on the stock servo mount that is put in the foam wing mount location.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Hop-ups

[edit] Shocks

  • TOP PS-TR15550 Shock Spring (14 x 1.5 x 5.50) 393gf/mm , 22.0lb/in
  • TOP PS-TR15575 Shock Spring (14 x 1.5 x 5.75) 367gf/mm , 20.5lb/in
  • TOP PP-010321 Oil Mixed O-Ring for Dampers 40° (10 pcs)
  • TOP PA-100305 Shim Set M3x5mm 0.1,0.2,0.3mm (10 each)
  • Losi 40WT, 42.5WT, 45WT & 50WT shock oil
  • Kyosho KYOORG03X Grooved O-Ring (P3/For Oil Shock) (8)


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Steering

  • King Headz TOP-011 BELL CRANK
  • Kimbrough KIM201 Mid Size Servo Saver (Futaba,Hitec,Airtronics)


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Front C-Hubs

All XRay C-Hubs require the use of Steel Steering Bushings

  • XRay 30 2363 COMPOSITE C-HUB RIGHT - 4° DEG. - MEDIUM
  • XRay 30 2364 COMPOSITE C-HUB LEFT - 4° DEG. - MEDIUM
  • XRay 30 2291 STEEL STEERING BUSHING (2+2)
  • XRay 30 2365 COMPOSITE C-HUB RIGHT - 6° DEG. - MEDIUM
  • XRay 30 2366 COMPOSITE C-HUB LEFT - 6° DEG. - MEDIUM


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Drive Train

All drive train modifications require the use of XRay C-Hubs to allow for chatter eliminating axles

[edit] Stock 40T/20T (2.0 internal ratio)

XRay components sold by XRay or others will NOT work within the stock diff/spool parts.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Chatter Free Option 1

[edit] Front Axles
  • XRay Drive Shafts (ECS style to be specific - should support the following combinations)
    • XRay 305325 Equalized Corner Speed (ECS) Drive Shaft - Hudy Spring Steel (1) - 50mm
    • XRay 305327 Equalized Corner Speed (ECS) Drive Shaft - Hudy Spring Steel (1) - 52mm
    • Spec-R SPR001-T2 Universal Swing Shaft Set for XRAY T2/T3 (2)
  • XRay 30 5241 DRIVE SHAFT REPLACEMENT PLASTIC CAP 3.5 MM (4)
  • McMaster-Carr 7132K76 Chemical-resistant Pvc Heat-shrink Tubing, 1/2" Id Before, 1/4" Id After, 6" Length, Black


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Front Spool


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Chatter Free Option 2

[edit] Front Axles
  • Atomic/Spec-R SPR001-BD C.V. Universal Swing Shaft (For YOKOMO BD5)
  • XRay 30 5241 DRIVE SHAFT REPLACEMENT PLASTIC CAP 3.5 MM (4)
    • XRay's blades are loose fitting, but contain a strong and thicker plastic
  • McMaster-Carr 7132K76 Chemical-resistant Pvc Heat-shrink Tubing, 1/2" Id Before, 1/4" Id After, 6" Length, Black


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Front Spool
  • 2mm shim added in between the T.O.P. Aluminum Spool Cups and the T.O.P. Photon Plastic Spool
    • Provides more "meat" on the blade to prevent breaking blades, and bending Aluminum Spool Cups

Note Running T.O.P. Steel Spool Cups along with Atomic/Spec-R CV axles will cause the drive shaft to bend and then eventually break.


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Gear Diff

[edit] Option 1
  • Yokomo BD-500GS BD5 Gear Diff
  • T.O.P. PA-101012 10mm Shim Set
  • Assoicated ASC31238 FT CVA Bone Blade
    • These are the cheapest, and most reliable replacement options for Gear Diff blades
    • The thickness of the blade must be reduced by light sanding
    • The size of the pin hole must be drilled out to allow for free movement on the drive shaft


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Option 2
  • Atomic/Spec-R SPR009-BD Gear Differential set (For Yokomo BD5 40T)
  • T.O.P. PA-101012 10mm Shim Set
  • Assoicated ASC31238 FT CVA Bone Blade
    • These are the cheapest, and most reliable replacement options for Gear Diff blades
    • The thickness of the blade must be reduced by light sanding
    • The size of the pin hole must be drilled out to allow for free movement on the drive shaft


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] XRay-based 38T/20T Drive Train (1.9 internal gear ratio)

[edit] Front Axles

  • 2x XRay 30 5325 EQUALIZED CORNERING SPEED (ECS) DRIVE SHAFT 50MM <-- 50MM seems to be everyone's favorite
  • XRay 30 5390 ECS DRIVE SHAFT PIN 1.5 x 8.5 - V3 (2)
  • XRay 30 5391 ECS DRIVE SHAFT PIN 1.5 x 9 WITH FLAT SPOT (2)
  • XRay 30 5241 DRIVE SHAFT REPLACEMENT PLASTIC CAP 3.5 MM (4)
  • McMaster-Carr 7132K76 Chemical-resistant Pvc Heat-shrink Tubing, 1/2" Id Before, 1/4" Id After, 6" Length, Black


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Front Spool

  • XRay 30 5188 COMPOSITE SOLID AXLE 38T - SET
  • XRay or FlyingFox RC Aluminum Spool Cups for T3
  • T.O.P. PA-101012 10mm Shim Set


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Front Belts

  • XRay 30 5432 HIGH-PERFORMANCE KEVLAR DRIVE BELT FRONT 3 x 513 MM (Stock T3 EU/US Front Belt)


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Rear Axle

  • 2x XRay 30 5328 ALU DRIVE SHAFT SWISS 7075 T6 - HARD COATED - 50MM
  • 2x XRay 30 5341 DRIVE AXLE - LIGHTWEIGHT - HUDY SPRING STEEL™
  • 2x XRay 30 5231 DRIVE SHAFT COUPLING - HUDY SPRING STEEL
  • XRay 98 0210 PIN 2x9.8 (10)


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Rear Ball Diff

  • XRay 30 5003 ALU BALL DIFFERENTIAL 34T + 38T PULLEY - 7075 T6 - SET
  • XRay 30 5080 DIFF WASHER+ BALL STEEL 2.4 MM ( 2+12 ) SET
  • T.O.P. PA-101012 10mm Shim Set


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Rear Gear Diff

  • Atomic/Spec-R SPR009-XR Gear Differential set (For X-Ray 38T)
  • T.O.P. PA-101012 10mm Shim Set


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Rear Belt

  • XRay 30 5443 HIGH-PERFORMANCE KEVLAR DRIVE BELT REAR 3 x 186 MM (T2'008/009 US Rear Belt)


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Layshaft

  • Lunsford 7902 Long Fat Boy Motor Screws


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Servo Mounting

When drilling the documented different servo location the new location uses an XRay Servo mount.

  • XRay 306200-K - Alu Servo Mount - Black


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Replacement Parts / Consumables

  • T.O.P. TC-PMLS02 20T Center Pulley
  • T.O.P. PO-CDB408BK 1.6mm Ceramic Differential Ball (8)
  • T.O.P. TC-PDTS01 Thrust Bearing Set
  • T.O.P. PO-CDB312BK 3mm Ceramic Differential Ball (12)
  • T.O.P. PP-010321 Oil Mixed O-Ring for Dampers 40° (10 pcs)
  • T.O.P. TC-PMJS01 Spool Set
  • Diff Rings - Use TOP or IRS D-Rings as replacements
  • 5x10x4mm bearings
  • 10x15x4mm bearings
  • Blades


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon


[edit] Setups


Source(s): T.O.P. Photon

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