Tamiya TRF417

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Contents

[edit] Overview

This is the 2010 IFMAR ISTC World Championship-winning machine, the TRF417 Chassis Kit. TRF417 was created using valuable race data gained through races with the TRF416 and aims to win the world championship in 2012.

[edit] Manufacture Web Pages

[edit] Manual

[edit] Discussion Boards

[edit] Blogs

[edit] Build Hints

[edit] By Art Scrimo

When building the TRF417 it is recommended to run 46mm swing shafts with the spool and 44mm with a front gear diff. It is also recommended that racers run the steel versions of the swing shafts in the front just for durability.

Tamiya 51092 (46mm) Tamiya 54078 (44mm)

It is also recommended that when running a spool to put Tamiya anti-wear grease on the end of the swing shaft that gets inserted inside the plastic spool cups. This helps to reduce wear on the spool cups.

[edit] By Jilles Groskamp

  • Jilles Groskamp - Building shocks
    • muchmore blue orings seem to last for at least a few rebuilds
    • bladders last a long time
    • 0.1mm shim under piston to take out play
    • 61.5 shock length top to bottom
    • measure distance from shock collar to top to ensure the springs have equal pressure
  • Pro Tips 2011 with Jilles Groskamp - Part 1 of 3 - Explains the new TRF417 Features
    • narrow bulkheads
    • longer camber links, or 416 std length
    • 1.94 ratio
    • tamiya gear diff
    • less shock tower options, removing unused holes
    • car shown w/ anti-tuck posts - outer hole in shock tower - using front body posts
    • cut motor mount in 417
      • Unnecessary now with the TRF417X
    • normally races with a 4.5t motor
    • basic setup
      • cut top deck to increase flex in one of two ways
        1. front and back
        2. just the middle
    • rear gear diff always better over ball diff
    • fixed servo horn - no servo saver - more direct steering
    • less shims under the camber link in the rear -- more camber change for more traction
    • using middle hole on bulkhead at rear
    • double joint front drive shaft
      • Finally available for purchase as of March 2012 - RC Double Cardan Joint Shaft - 44mm (2pcs) PN #42216
  • Pro Tips 2011 with Jilles Groskamp - Part 3 of 3 - Building a gear diff
    • Sand the two large gears with 400 grit paper until 3.57mm instead of the stock 3.65mm and then clean with motor spray
    • Lightly sand the four smaller gears to just remove the plastic flashing and then again clean with motor spray
    • Use three 5x10x0.1mm shims on the differential drive shaft between the oring and pin+large gear

[edit] Hop-ups

The stock bumper is a little soft and does not really help with crashes on the front end of the car. It is recommended that you install a T2/T3 Parma bumper. This is greatly reduce breakage from front-end impacts. It requires very little modifications to make fit and works very well.

Parma T2 Bumper: PAR0853

It is also a good idea to carry some front aluminum C-Hubs. The Square C-Hubs are the absolute best for the car and work very well in high traction conditions.

Square: STA-36FS

[edit] Replacement Parts / Consumables

[edit] Front End

[edit] C-Hubs

[edit] Stock Hard/Brittle

  • Tamiya PN #54031 TA05IFS F Parts - Hub Carrier 4 Degrees, Hard

[edit] Optional

  • Tamiya PN #51293 TA05-IFS F Parts - H Carrier

[edit] Drive Line

[edit] Front Axles

The aluminum front axles are too weak, use the steel ones instead:

  • Tamiya PN #54078 44mm Swing Shafts Steel
  • Tamiya PN #51092 46mm Swing Shafts Steel


[edit] Shocks

[edit] Setups

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