Team Associated TC6

From RacerLog

Jump to: navigation, search

Contents

[edit] Overview

[edit] Manufacture Web Pages

[edit] Manual

[edit] Discussion Boards

[edit] Build Hints

Flip the knuckles so that the steering link sits above the knuckles instead of below it, this helps smooth out the steering.

Drill a 1mm hole in the shock caps so setting rebound is easier. There is a mold mark on the inside of the cap where it is easiest to do.

Instead of the stock plastic shims used for trackwidth/toe-in on the bulkheads, use the AE R5 bulkhead shims (PN 4617). This is because the plastic shims can crush slightly after use. 2 Packs of the shims is enough to do almost anything you want with the front width/rear toe. These also work if you want to replace the wheelbase shims as well (although not necessary for that area).

If you plan on running the shorter link options in the rear end, you will need a shorter camber link (the stock will only fit position 7). AE PN 1401 (33mm) is recommended

The Ti coated ballstuds fit the ballends much better than the stock ones, however the fitment on the stock ones can be freed up by squeezing the end with pliers. Also on the subject of ballstuds, if you run 1mm or more of shims under the ballstud on the front c-hub, opt for the 10mm length ballstuds, they will save you from ripping the stud out of the knuckle.

A 3x5mm setscrew in the unused hole of the rear upright helps to keep the ballstud from pulling out of the upright.

The stock arm mounts have a tendency to shift, especially after hits, this requires re-tightening periodically. See hop ups for a few options to address this.

The slipper spool will build much better with the white AE offroad t-nut (PN 6575) (it doesnt strip out)

[edit] Hop-ups

Reflex/RSD

Reflex Racing Has lots of awesome parts available for the car. Most notably, are the vertical ballstud bulkhead caps. These give you 2 length options for vertical ballstud mounting (the long option is the same length as AE 7, the short option is slightly longer than the inner set of tower holes). They also have a spring kit to give you finer options than AE provides, as well as the "Hebert" Piston in machined delrin. Other parts include:

Soft silicon shock bladders

Block lock shims

Drop in ECS front driveshafts are in the works as well, along with a 30mm fan mount, and other parts

PPD

PPD Also has their take on a block lock option, the Dial-A-Grip. These replace the stock arm mounts with alu pieces that enable arm mount adjustments without needing separate blocks.

Gear Diff Fitment

AE and Spec R are releasing drop in diffs for the TC6, but they are as yet unreleased. The interim solution has been to fit either the Yokomo BD5 diff, or the Spec R BD5 diff (The Yokomo diff is more expensive, but much better quality). This requires 2 modifications - the diff case, and outdrives/dogbones

-Diff Case: the BD5 bulkheads are slightly wider than the TC6 so you must remove material from one side of the diff case so the bearing sits in further. I prefer the long side of the diff so the belt sits more centered. It does not have to be very precise or a thing of beauty for it to be functional, the diff just needs to sit in the bulkheads and spin free.

-Dogbones/outdrives: The AE bone end is bigger than the Yok one, so one of 2 options is necessary, either open up the outdrive or sand down the dogbone. If you have a drill press and a 1/8" bit, you can drill out the outdrives accurately. Or, if your in a rush, a dremel and a sanding drum will do the job to sand down the bone end. Not much material needs to be removed, just enough to get it in and pivoting freely. The sanded down bone ends will work fine in the stock AE diffs as well.

TOP Spool

If you do not want to run the slipper spool, it is very easy to fit a TOP spool. It requires the same mod to fit as a Yok. gear diff (except easier since only 4 ridges locate the bearing), and requires the Side Piece Nikita outdrives/Xray blades. This setup is much lighter than the slipper spool, and critically there is no t-nut to strip, and no thrust bolt to break

[edit] Replacement Parts / Consumables

I like to classify spares into 3 categories: Don't show up at a track without these, You probably want these but can get away without them, and If you need these you might need a re-kit.

Don't show up at a track without these

C-Hubs

Steering Knuckles

Rear Uprights

6x10x3 bearings (if you broke a knuckle/hub, chances are you toasted a bearing. Avid sells bearings for $1/per, so stocking up is cheap)

Dogbone Blades

Spur Gear (Almost any brand fits)

You probably want these, but can get away without them

F/R A Arms

Arm mount set

Sway Bars

F/R Shock Towers

Hingepins

Body

If you need these you might need a re-kit

F/R Bulkheads

Chassis plate

Top Deck

[edit] Setups

Personal tools